Ask The Gemologist

This page was created to provide answers to frequently asked questions. They represent questions I often hear at the counter as well as answers to questions which have been emailed to us. If you have any questions you would like answered don't hesitate to contact me. If I don't know the answer I'll research the question and find out. Samuel S. Bruner, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, American Gem Society What is an ideal cut diamond? The term "ideal cut" is not a trademarked term. It has been used for years to refer to the proportions shown on our page about diamond cutting. Today there is a problem because some labs are misrepresenting the term ideal. Suddenly there are diamonds with all kinds of proportions that are being called ideal. These stones cost less and they are simply not as beautiful. The American Gem Society lab grades diamonds for cut on a scale of 0 to 10 with 0 being ideal in the strictest and most traditional sense. What is a Sarin machine? A Sarin is a measuring device using an infrared video unit connected to a computer. It is capable of measuring the different parts of the diamonds accurately to within 2 to 4 hundredths of a millimeter. It is the most accurate device available for measuring diamonds. When it became available in a model for retail jewelers I bought one immediately. It is simply the best tool available for creating a document that shows the customer the exact proportions of the diamond he/she is buying. Ours is loaded with the American Gem Society cutting grade parameters so it shows whether the diamond is in the ideal, excellent, very good or lesser ranges. How important is the diamond's cut? The diamond's proportion or "cut" is the single most important factor in a diamond's beauty. After twenty-five years in the jewelry business I would only own an ideal or "near ideal" diamond. I believe, as do many of America's top jewelers, that the traditional ideal cut diamond is the most beautiful and the American Gem Society grading system for cut is the best way for the consumer to be assured of getting the brightest and most fiery diamonds. Why is the American Gem Society cut grade system the best? The American Gem Society (AGS) cut grade system has been around for a very long time. It is the toughest standard and the absolute easiest to understand. All the different parts of the diamond are individually graded with a number from 0 to 10 with 0 being the best. The lowest number given is the cut grade. That system has been designed to be the easiest for the consumer to understand. In the last few years other cut grade systems have been designed which are more lax and are impossible for the consumer to understand without a great deal of time and effort. They are designed for one reason - to make it hard on the consumer and easier for the jeweler to sell a poorer cut stone while making it look like a good deal. There is no difference between that and the myriad of "easy labs" who are quite loose with their grading. The best protection you have is to avoid these systems. How do I know who is telling me the truth? That may be the hardest thing for the consumer to judge. Follow your instincts. Stay away from stores where you feel the least bit uncomfortable or where someone is trying to pressure you into buying something because it is such a good deal. I often simply tell customers to think about the conversations you've had in jewelry stores and recall those which made good common sense. What is a Gemologist, Graduate Gemologist or Certified Gemologist? The words Gemologist or Graduate Gemologist represent diplomas from the Gemological Institute of America. They are not titles. It means people have passed the correct tests to receive the diploma. While the course is full of good information it does not in itself confer any level of competence. After all, a law degree does not make a lawyer. Not only must the lawyer pass the bar but you would like to know what kind of experience that person has and what they've done during their professional lives. For instance, the portion about diamonds only requires you grade about 10 stones. That gives you an idea of how you should grade but there is a whole lot more to it. To be a good diamond grader you need to take the course and grade hundreds of diamonds over some years. The words Certified Gemologist and Certified Gemologist Appraiser are awarded by the American Gem Society and are the highest titles available in the profession and represent years of experience. Like the lawyer example remember, a lawyer can lose his/her title but the law degree can never be taken away. The titles of Certified Gemologist Appraiser and Certified Gemologist can be removed but no one can take away a Gemologist diploma. Why are there so few Certified Gemologist Appraisers? Usually it doesn't put more money in your pocket. Most of the Certified Gemologist Appraisers (CGA) that I know do it out of professional pride and to serve their clients better. At M.A.B. Diamonds we couldn't do business any other way. Its not that there aren't good people in the industry who are not CGAs or members of the American Gem Society but membership and the attainment of titles means that jeweler has really gone out his/her way to provide the best service possible.

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